Uses of Karanis Textiles Examined in Fall Exhibition
The Associates of the Kelsey Museum, 2000-2001
Copyright © 2001 The Kelsey Museum of Archaeology, University of Michigan. All rights reserved.
eptember 28, 2001. The essay below situates the exhibition in its historical and Kelsey contexts.
Historic textiles of the Roman period
and later antiquity (first century BC through seventh century
AD) are rare in many parts of the world, in large part because
these artifacts are composed of fragile organic matter that survives
only in special environmental conditions. Early in the modern
period, around the close of the eighteenth century, Western travelers
discovered that the dry sands of Egypt preserved textiles in relatively
large quantities.
Typically, these cloths are the shrouds and other grave goods
of cemetery settings, so they yield interesting information about
the need for cloth in the afterlife. The first-and many of the
largest-museum collections of late antique Egyptian textiles are
comprised of acquisitions from cemetery explorations that could
be called, at best, unscientific. Consequently, the attribution
of a late antique Egyptian textile to its place of discovery is,
all too often, mere speculation based on sketchy tips provided
by a dealer (who might have mingled textile lots from various
sites or mentioned a well-known site to enhance the prestige of
his merchandise) or on comparisons to textiles from the few sites
with some archaeological documentation.
The Kelsey Textiles from Karanis
It is these concerns of preservation and attribution that distinguish
the Kelsey's 3,500 Roman-period and late antique textiles from
Karanis, Egypt, found in the 1920s and 1930s. The dry climate
in which they were discovered provided the conditions necessary
to their survival, and all the pieces are securely attributed
to Karanis. Indeed many of them can be assigned to specific locations
within the site, thus yielding precious information about the
use of cloth in the settings of daily life.
Karanis was founded in the late Ptolemaic period (mid third century
BC) in Egypt's fertile Fayoum basin, which was being developed
for its agricultural potential. The town grew during the Roman
period (beginning in the first century BC) to reach the height
of its prosperity in the second half of the third century AD,
at the beginning of the period called "late antiquity."
Most Karanis textiles should probably be assigned dates during
the Roman period and late antiquity.
Papyri
The town was discovered around the turn of the twentieth century,
when excavators were searching for papyri-an ancient form of paper
on which were written letters, inventories, official contracts
and prayers, and works of literature-all highly prized by scholars
of Egypt's later Greek and Roman periods. Karanis did indeed yield
great quantities of papyri, but the site was also extraordinarily
rich in other artifacts, from large architectural complexes to
tiny beads. In fact, F. W. Kelsey, the Museum's founder and organizer
of the Karanis expedition, seems to have dubbed the site "the
Pompeii of Egypt," recognizing the rarity of so complete
a glimpse of Roman Egyptian town life.
A computer component of the exhibition "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" will allow Museum visitors to look up key excerpts
from texts about cloth written on papyri from Karanis. These documents
provide information available in no other form about, for instance,
the textile industry and the monetary values assigned to particular
textile goods. Most of these papyri are housed in the University
of Michigan Papyrus Collection and are accessible on line via
the Advanced Papyrological Information System (APIS) at http://www.lib.umich.edu/pap.
Modern Documents
In addition to ancient papyri, a number of modern documents have
proved useful in organizing the exhibition on Karanis textiles.
One is a 1934 article from The Ann Arbor Daily News (fig. 1),
which conveys the sense of excitement that the Karanis expedition
generated when it was under way by quoting archaeologist Enoch
Peterson: "From a dead and buried city we have learned of
the life of a living people." The article also declares that
"the excavations carried on at the site of Karanis over the
past 10 years have given us both an accurate and complete account
of the life there; the houses the people lived in, the streets
where they walked or rode on donkey back, the furniture they used,
the paintings that adorned their walls, the clothes they wore,
the household objects of wood, pottery, glass, faience, bronze,
and bone, the harness rope and basketry."
In the catalogue for her 1983 exhibition, Karanis: An Egyptian
Town in Roman Times, Elaine Gazda celebrated this aspect of the
site in more considered, less breathless prose: "The town
of Karanis occupies a unique place in the annals of Egyptian and
Graeco-Roman archaeology. Although no more than a rustic agricultural
village in the Fayoum oasis, it looms large for us because it
provides a microcosm of life as it was lived by ordinary people
under Greek and Roman rule." "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" continues to explore this information about daily life,
but it is unique in its focus on the textiles. Another useful
document for understanding the Karanis textiles is Lillian Wilson's
Ancient Textiles from Egypt in the University of Michigan Collection
(1933), which provides catalogue entries for about 1 percent of
the textiles from Karanis and is based in large part on an unpublished
study by the English scholar Thomas Midgley. Both studies identified
findspots when known, but neither exploited this information for
what it might say, for example, about the social settings in which
particular kinds of cloth were found. Aside from coins that might
provide a specific date-another rarity for late antique textiles-the
other items that were found with cloth artifacts have usually
been overlooked. "The Fabric of Everyday Life" will
make use of reconstructed assemblages and their typical contexts-interior
rooms, courtyards, and rubbish heaps-to reveal important insights
into cloth manufacture and mending, as well as the practices of
use, reuse, and ultimately rejection of a textile.
Museum Resources
Archival photographs are also crucial to what has turned out to
be an expedition into "museum archaeology" in preparation
for this exhibition. Such images provide visual evidence that
complements the sometimes spotty written records and mapping efforts
for these excavations, which were never published in their entirety.
Some of these photographs record discovery sites for which there
are no maps or written records; others record textiles that were
not acquired by the Kelsey and that, in all probability, no longer
survive (e.g., fig. 2) .
One archival photograph (fig. 3) organizes a selection of textiles
found during several years of excavation, thus recording their
condition upon discovery. This information is extremely useful
because, although the textiles have been cleaned since their acquisition,
no records of any treatments were kept. "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" will display a small but representative selection of
textiles in conjunction with archival photographs relevant to
their interpretation.
Yet another important context for the research represented in
"The Fabric of Everyday Life" has been important exploratory
work by longtime Kelsey Museum volunteer Ann Van Rosevelt in identifying
assemblages with cloth. In addition, my own surveys of the Kelsey
textile collection and the Karanis archives have benefited immensely
from a massive reorganization of the archives and reconfiguration
of the Museum's database. My survey of the textiles, begun in
the late 1980s, has been greatly facilitated by their placement
in the early 1990s in the spacious cabinets of the Museum's Sensitive
Artifact Facility and Environment (SAFE) (fig. 4).
The Textiles Themselves
In the Karanis textiles themselves, visitors to "The Fabric
of Everyday Life" will encounter plain, worn fragments with
little visual appeal (fig. 5). Upon examination and reflection,
however, these pieces exert an extraordinary power to evoke past
lives. Once, these rags were part of clothes that were worn next
to the skin, rugs that were walked on, or bags that carried life-sustaining
food. They are thus extremely "intimate artifacts,"
as one archaeologist calls them. The exhibition will attempt to
foreground that sense of intimacy, in part by asking viewers to
think of analogies for the use of cloth in their own lives.
The exhibition will also present ancient images of textiles as
a way to reveal conceptions of them quite different from the plain
examples found at the site. For example, one particular set of
images from Karanis, iconic wall paintings, envisions special
textiles worn by divinities (fig. 6). These sacred devotional
images represented for the inhabitants of Karanis a quality of
cloth that they did not expect to encounter in their everyday
lives.
A Team Effort
This exhibition project is a team effort. Consultants Mark Nielson
and Steve Hixson are coordinating exhibition design. Preparator
Dana Buck is making the design tangible. Conservator Brook Bowman
has prepared and vetted the textiles and other objects for display
and is assisting with exhibition design. Robin Meador-Woodruff
responds promptly and graciously to my special demands for photography.
Although many volunteers and students have worked with me on this
project, special thanks go to Kelly Goodknecht (Kalamazoo College),
research assistant extraordinaire, who organized vast amounts
of information from the archives, the database, and the registry,
and to Melanie Grunow (IPCAA), who is programming the touch-screen
computer for the exhibition. Finally, the project owes a great
debt to Ann Van Rosevelt for her many contributions over the years
to the preservation and study of these textiles.
Thelma K. Thomas
"The Fabric of Everyday Life: Historic Textiles from Karanis,
Egypt," curated by Thelma K. Thomas, opens September 28,
2001. The essay below situates the exhibition in its historical
and Kelsey contexts.
Historic textiles of the Roman period
and later antiquity (first century BC through seventh century
AD) are rare in many parts of the world, in large part because
these artifacts are composed of fragile organic matter that survives
only in special environmental conditions. Early in the modern
period, around the close of the eighteenth century, Western travelers
discovered that the dry sands of Egypt preserved textiles in relatively
large quantities.
Typically, these cloths are the shrouds and other grave goods
of cemetery settings, so they yield interesting information about
the need for cloth in the afterlife. The first-and many of the
largest-museum collections of late antique Egyptian textiles are
comprised of acquisitions from cemetery explorations that could
be called, at best, unscientific. Consequently, the attribution
of a late antique Egyptian textile to its place of discovery is,
all too often, mere speculation based on sketchy tips provided
by a dealer (who might have mingled textile lots from various
sites or mentioned a well-known site to enhance the prestige of
his merchandise) or on comparisons to textiles from the few sites
with some archaeological documentation.
The Kelsey Textiles from Karanis
It is these concerns of preservation and attribution that distinguish
the Kelsey's 3,500 Roman-period and late antique textiles from
Karanis, Egypt, found in the 1920s and 1930s. The dry climate
in which they were discovered provided the conditions necessary
to their survival, and all the pieces are securely attributed
to Karanis. Indeed many of them can be assigned to specific locations
within the site, thus yielding precious information about the
use of cloth in the settings of daily life.
Karanis was founded in the late Ptolemaic period (mid third century
BC) in Egypt's fertile Fayoum basin, which was being developed
for its agricultural potential. The town grew during the Roman
period (beginning in the first century BC) to reach the height
of its prosperity in the second half of the third century AD,
at the beginning of the period called "late antiquity."
Most Karanis textiles should probably be assigned dates during
the Roman period and late antiquity.
Papyri
The town was discovered around the turn of the twentieth century,
when excavators were searching for papyri-an ancient form of paper
on which were written letters, inventories, official contracts
and prayers, and works of literature-all highly prized by scholars
of Egypt's later Greek and Roman periods. Karanis did indeed yield
great quantities of papyri, but the site was also extraordinarily
rich in other artifacts, from large architectural complexes to
tiny beads. In fact, F. W. Kelsey, the Museum's founder and organizer
of the Karanis expedition, seems to have dubbed the site "the
Pompeii of Egypt," recognizing the rarity of so complete
a glimpse of Roman Egyptian town life.
A computer component of the exhibition "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" will allow Museum visitors to look up key excerpts
from texts about cloth written on papyri from Karanis. These documents
provide information available in no other form about, for instance,
the textile industry and the monetary values assigned to particular
textile goods. Most of these papyri are housed in the University
of Michigan Papyrus Collection and are accessible on line via
the Advanced Papyrological Information System (APIS) at http://www.lib.umich.edu/pap.
Modern Documents
In addition to ancient papyri, a number of modern documents have
proved useful in organizing the exhibition on Karanis textiles.
One is a 1934 article from The Ann Arbor Daily News (fig. 1),
which conveys the sense of excitement that the Karanis expedition
generated when it was under way by quoting archaeologist Enoch
Peterson: "From a dead and buried city we have learned of
the life of a living people." The article also declares that
"the excavations carried on at the site of Karanis over the
past 10 years have given us both an accurate and complete account
of the life there; the houses the people lived in, the streets
where they walked or rode on donkey back, the furniture they used,
the paintings that adorned their walls, the clothes they wore,
the household objects of wood, pottery, glass, faience, bronze,
and bone, the harness rope and basketry."
In the catalogue for her 1983 exhibition, Karanis: An Egyptian
Town in Roman Times, Elaine Gazda celebrated this aspect of the
site in more considered, less breathless prose: "The town
of Karanis occupies a unique place in the annals of Egyptian and
Graeco-Roman archaeology. Although no more than a rustic agricultural
village in the Fayoum oasis, it looms large for us because it
provides a microcosm of life as it was lived by ordinary people
under Greek and Roman rule." "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" continues to explore this information about daily life,
but it is unique in its focus on the textiles. Another useful
document for understanding the Karanis textiles is Lillian Wilson's
Ancient Textiles from Egypt in the University of Michigan Collection
(1933), which provides catalogue entries for about 1 percent of
the textiles from Karanis and is based in large part on an unpublished
study by the English scholar Thomas Midgley. Both studies identified
findspots when known, but neither exploited this information for
what it might say, for example, about the social settings in which
particular kinds of cloth were found. Aside from coins that might
provide a specific date-another rarity for late antique textiles-the
other items that were found with cloth artifacts have usually
been overlooked. "The Fabric of Everyday Life" will
make use of reconstructed assemblages and their typical contexts-interior
rooms, courtyards, and rubbish heaps-to reveal important insights
into cloth manufacture and mending, as well as the practices of
use, reuse, and ultimately rejection of a textile.
Museum Resources
Archival photographs are also crucial to what has turned out to
be an expedition into "museum archaeology" in preparation
for this exhibition. Such images provide visual evidence that
complements the sometimes spotty written records and mapping efforts
for these excavations, which were never published in their entirety.
Some of these photographs record discovery sites for which there
are no maps or written records; others record textiles that were
not acquired by the Kelsey and that, in all probability, no longer
survive (e.g., fig. 2) .
One archival photograph (fig. 3) organizes a selection of textiles
found during several years of excavation, thus recording their
condition upon discovery. This information is extremely useful
because, although the textiles have been cleaned since their acquisition,
no records of any treatments were kept. "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" will display a small but representative selection of
textiles in conjunction with archival photographs relevant to
their interpretation.
Yet another important context for the research represented in
"The Fabric of Everyday Life" has been important exploratory
work by longtime Kelsey Museum volunteer Ann Van Rosevelt in identifying
assemblages with cloth. In addition, my own surveys of the Kelsey
textile collection and the Karanis archives have benefited immensely
from a massive reorganization of the archives and reconfiguration
of the Museum's database. My survey of the textiles, begun in
the late 1980s, has been greatly facilitated by their placement
in the early 1990s in the spacious cabinets of the Museum's Sensitive
Artifact Facility and Environment (SAFE) (fig. 4).
The Textiles Themselves
In the Karanis textiles themselves, visitors to "The Fabric
of Everyday Life" will encounter plain, worn fragments with
little visual appeal (fig. 5). Upon examination and reflection,
however, these pieces exert an extraordinary power to evoke past
lives. Once, these rags were part of clothes that were worn next
to the skin, rugs that were walked on, or bags that carried life-sustaining
food. They are thus extremely "intimate artifacts,"
as one archaeologist calls them. The exhibition will attempt to
foreground that sense of intimacy, in part by asking viewers to
think of analogies for the use of cloth in their own lives.
The exhibition will also present ancient images of textiles as
a way to reveal conceptions of them quite different from the plain
examples found at the site. For example, one particular set of
images from Karanis, iconic wall paintings, envisions special
textiles worn by divinities (fig. 6). These sacred devotional
images represented for the inhabitants of Karanis a quality of
cloth that they did not expect to encounter in their everyday
lives.
A Team Effort
This exhibition project is a team effort. Consultants Mark Nielson
and Steve Hixson are coordinating exhibition design. Preparator
Dana Buck is making the design tangible. Conservator Brook Bowman
has prepared and vetted the textiles and other objects for display
and is assisting with exhibition design. Robin Meador-Woodruff
responds promptly and graciously to my special demands for photography.
Although many volunteers and students have worked with me on this
project, special thanks go to Kelly Goodknecht (Kalamazoo College),
research assistant extraordinaire, who organized vast amounts
of information from the archives, the database, and the registry,
and to Melanie Grunow (IPCAA), who is programming the touch-screen
computer for the exhibition. Finally, the project owes a great
debt to Ann Van Rosevelt for her many contributions over the years
to the preservation and study of these textiles.
Thelma K. Thomas
"The Fabric of Everyday Life: Historic Textiles from Karanis,
Egypt," curated by Thelma K. Thomas, opens September 28,
2001. The essay below situates the exhibition in its historical
and Kelsey contexts.
Historic textiles of the Roman period
and later antiquity (first century BC through seventh century
AD) are rare in many parts of the world, in large part because
these artifacts are composed of fragile organic matter that survives
only in special environmental conditions. Early in the modern
period, around the close of the eighteenth century, Western travelers
discovered that the dry sands of Egypt preserved textiles in relatively
large quantities.
Typically, these cloths are the shrouds and other grave goods
of cemetery settings, so they yield interesting information about
the need for cloth in the afterlife. The first-and many of the
largest-museum collections of late antique Egyptian textiles are
comprised of acquisitions from cemetery explorations that could
be called, at best, unscientific. Consequently, the attribution
of a late antique Egyptian textile to its place of discovery is,
all too often, mere speculation based on sketchy tips provided
by a dealer (who might have mingled textile lots from various
sites or mentioned a well-known site to enhance the prestige of
his merchandise) or on comparisons to textiles from the few sites
with some archaeological documentation.
The Kelsey Textiles from Karanis
It is these concerns of preservation and attribution that distinguish
the Kelsey's 3,500 Roman-period and late antique textiles from
Karanis, Egypt, found in the 1920s and 1930s. The dry climate
in which they were discovered provided the conditions necessary
to their survival, and all the pieces are securely attributed
to Karanis. Indeed many of them can be assigned to specific locations
within the site, thus yielding precious information about the
use of cloth in the settings of daily life.
Karanis was founded in the late Ptolemaic period (mid third century
BC) in Egypt's fertile Fayoum basin, which was being developed
for its agricultural potential. The town grew during the Roman
period (beginning in the first century BC) to reach the height
of its prosperity in the second half of the third century AD,
at the beginning of the period called "late antiquity."
Most Karanis textiles should probably be assigned dates during
the Roman period and late antiquity.
Papyri
The town was discovered around the turn of the twentieth century,
when excavators were searching for papyri-an ancient form of paper
on which were written letters, inventories, official contracts
and prayers, and works of literature-all highly prized by scholars
of Egypt's later Greek and Roman periods. Karanis did indeed yield
great quantities of papyri, but the site was also extraordinarily
rich in other artifacts, from large architectural complexes to
tiny beads. In fact, F. W. Kelsey, the Museum's founder and organizer
of the Karanis expedition, seems to have dubbed the site "the
Pompeii of Egypt," recognizing the rarity of so complete
a glimpse of Roman Egyptian town life.
A computer component of the exhibition "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" will allow Museum visitors to look up key excerpts
from texts about cloth written on papyri from Karanis. These documents
provide information available in no other form about, for instance,
the textile industry and the monetary values assigned to particular
textile goods. Most of these papyri are housed in the University
of Michigan Papyrus Collection and are accessible on line via
the Advanced Papyrological Information System (APIS) at http://www.lib.umich.edu/pap.
Modern Documents
In addition to ancient papyri, a number of modern documents have
proved useful in organizing the exhibition on Karanis textiles.
One is a 1934 article from The Ann Arbor Daily News (fig. 1),
which conveys the sense of excitement that the Karanis expedition
generated when it was under way by quoting archaeologist Enoch
Peterson: "From a dead and buried city we have learned of
the life of a living people." The article also declares that
"the excavations carried on at the site of Karanis over the
past 10 years have given us both an accurate and complete account
of the life there; the houses the people lived in, the streets
where they walked or rode on donkey back, the furniture they used,
the paintings that adorned their walls, the clothes they wore,
the household objects of wood, pottery, glass, faience, bronze,
and bone, the harness rope and basketry."
In the catalogue for her 1983 exhibition, Karanis: An Egyptian
Town in Roman Times, Elaine Gazda celebrated this aspect of the
site in more considered, less breathless prose: "The town
of Karanis occupies a unique place in the annals of Egyptian and
Graeco-Roman archaeology. Although no more than a rustic agricultural
village in the Fayoum oasis, it looms large for us because it
provides a microcosm of life as it was lived by ordinary people
under Greek and Roman rule." "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" continues to explore this information about daily life,
but it is unique in its focus on the textiles. Another useful
document for understanding the Karanis textiles is Lillian Wilson's
Ancient Textiles from Egypt in the University of Michigan Collection
(1933), which provides catalogue entries for about 1 percent of
the textiles from Karanis and is based in large part on an unpublished
study by the English scholar Thomas Midgley. Both studies identified
findspots when known, but neither exploited this information for
what it might say, for example, about the social settings in which
particular kinds of cloth were found. Aside from coins that might
provide a specific date-another rarity for late antique textiles-the
other items that were found with cloth artifacts have usually
been overlooked. "The Fabric of Everyday Life" will
make use of reconstructed assemblages and their typical contexts-interior
rooms, courtyards, and rubbish heaps-to reveal important insights
into cloth manufacture and mending, as well as the practices of
use, reuse, and ultimately rejection of a textile.
Museum Resources
Archival photographs are also crucial to what has turned out to
be an expedition into "museum archaeology" in preparation
for this exhibition. Such images provide visual evidence that
complements the sometimes spotty written records and mapping efforts
for these excavations, which were never published in their entirety.
Some of these photographs record discovery sites for which there
are no maps or written records; others record textiles that were
not acquired by the Kelsey and that, in all probability, no longer
survive (e.g., fig. 2) .
One archival photograph (fig. 3) organizes a selection of textiles
found during several years of excavation, thus recording their
condition upon discovery. This information is extremely useful
because, although the textiles have been cleaned since their acquisition,
no records of any treatments were kept. "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" will display a small but representative selection of
textiles in conjunction with archival photographs relevant to
their interpretation.
Yet another important context for the research represented in
"The Fabric of Everyday Life" has been important exploratory
work by longtime Kelsey Museum volunteer Ann Van Rosevelt in identifying
assemblages with cloth. In addition, my own surveys of the Kelsey
textile collection and the Karanis archives have benefited immensely
from a massive reorganization of the archives and reconfiguration
of the Museum's database. My survey of the textiles, begun in
the late 1980s, has been greatly facilitated by their placement
in the early 1990s in the spacious cabinets of the Museum's Sensitive
Artifact Facility and Environment (SAFE) (fig. 4).
The Textiles Themselves
In the Karanis textiles themselves, visitors to "The Fabric
of Everyday Life" will encounter plain, worn fragments with
little visual appeal (fig. 5). Upon examination and reflection,
however, these pieces exert an extraordinary power to evoke past
lives. Once, these rags were part of clothes that were worn next
to the skin, rugs that were walked on, or bags that carried life-sustaining
food. They are thus extremely "intimate artifacts,"
as one archaeologist calls them. The exhibition will attempt to
foreground that sense of intimacy, in part by asking viewers to
think of analogies for the use of cloth in their own lives.
The exhibition will also present ancient images of textiles as
a way to reveal conceptions of them quite different from the plain
examples found at the site. For example, one particular set of
images from Karanis, iconic wall paintings, envisions special
textiles worn by divinities (fig. 6). These sacred devotional
images represented for the inhabitants of Karanis a quality of
cloth that they did not expect to encounter in their everyday
lives.
A Team Effort
This exhibition project is a team effort. Consultants Mark Nielson
and Steve Hixson are coordinating exhibition design. Preparator
Dana Buck is making the design tangible. Conservator Brook Bowman
has prepared and vetted the textiles and other objects for display
and is assisting with exhibition design. Robin Meador-Woodruff
responds promptly and graciously to my special demands for photography.
Although many volunteers and students have worked with me on this
project, special thanks go to Kelly Goodknecht (Kalamazoo College),
research assistant extraordinaire, who organized vast amounts
of information from the archives, the database, and the registry,
and to Melanie Grunow (IPCAA), who is programming the touch-screen
computer for the exhibition. Finally, the project owes a great
debt to Ann Van Rosevelt for her many contributions over the years
to the preservation and study of these textiles.
Thelma K. Thomas
"The Fabric of Everyday Life: Historic Textiles from Karanis,
Egypt," curated by Thelma K. Thomas, opens September 28,
2001. The essay below situates the exhibition in its historical
and Kelsey contexts.
Historic textiles of the Roman period
and later antiquity (first century BC through seventh century
AD) are rare in many parts of the world, in large part because
these artifacts are composed of fragile organic matter that survives
only in special environmental conditions. Early in the modern
period, around the close of the eighteenth century, Western travelers
discovered that the dry sands of Egypt preserved textiles in relatively
large quantities.
Typically, these cloths are the shrouds and other grave goods
of cemetery settings, so they yield interesting information about
the need for cloth in the afterlife. The first-and many of the
largest-museum collections of late antique Egyptian textiles are
comprised of acquisitions from cemetery explorations that could
be called, at best, unscientific. Consequently, the attribution
of a late antique Egyptian textile to its place of discovery is,
all too often, mere speculation based on sketchy tips provided
by a dealer (who might have mingled textile lots from various
sites or mentioned a well-known site to enhance the prestige of
his merchandise) or on comparisons to textiles from the few sites
with some archaeological documentation.
The Kelsey Textiles from Karanis
It is these concerns of preservation and attribution that distinguish
the Kelsey's 3,500 Roman-period and late antique textiles from
Karanis, Egypt, found in the 1920s and 1930s. The dry climate
in which they were discovered provided the conditions necessary
to their survival, and all the pieces are securely attributed
to Karanis. Indeed many of them can be assigned to specific locations
within the site, thus yielding precious information about the
use of cloth in the settings of daily life.
Karanis was founded in the late Ptolemaic period (mid third century
BC) in Egypt's fertile Fayoum basin, which was being developed
for its agricultural potential. The town grew during the Roman
period (beginning in the first century BC) to reach the height
of its prosperity in the second half of the third century AD,
at the beginning of the period called "late antiquity."
Most Karanis textiles should probably be assigned dates during
the Roman period and late antiquity.
Papyri
The town was discovered around the turn of the twentieth century,
when excavators were searching for papyri-an ancient form of paper
on which were written letters, inventories, official contracts
and prayers, and works of literature-all highly prized by scholars
of Egypt's later Greek and Roman periods. Karanis did indeed yield
great quantities of papyri, but the site was also extraordinarily
rich in other artifacts, from large architectural complexes to
tiny beads. In fact, F. W. Kelsey, the Museum's founder and organizer
of the Karanis expedition, seems to have dubbed the site "the
Pompeii of Egypt," recognizing the rarity of so complete
a glimpse of Roman Egyptian town life.
A computer component of the exhibition "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" will allow Museum visitors to look up key excerpts
from texts about cloth written on papyri from Karanis. These documents
provide information available in no other form about, for instance,
the textile industry and the monetary values assigned to particular
textile goods. Most of these papyri are housed in the University
of Michigan Papyrus Collection and are accessible on line via
the Advanced Papyrological Information System (APIS) at http://www.lib.umich.edu/pap.
Modern Documents
In addition to ancient papyri, a number of modern documents have
proved useful in organizing the exhibition on Karanis textiles.
One is a 1934 article from The Ann Arbor Daily News (fig. 1),
which conveys the sense of excitement that the Karanis expedition
generated when it was under way by quoting archaeologist Enoch
Peterson: "From a dead and buried city we have learned of
the life of a living people." The article also declares that
"the excavations carried on at the site of Karanis over the
past 10 years have given us both an accurate and complete account
of the life there; the houses the people lived in, the streets
where they walked or rode on donkey back, the furniture they used,
the paintings that adorned their walls, the clothes they wore,
the household objects of wood, pottery, glass, faience, bronze,
and bone, the harness rope and basketry."
In the catalogue for her 1983 exhibition, Karanis: An Egyptian
Town in Roman Times, Elaine Gazda celebrated this aspect of the
site in more considered, less breathless prose: "The town
of Karanis occupies a unique place in the annals of Egyptian and
Graeco-Roman archaeology. Although no more than a rustic agricultural
village in the Fayoum oasis, it looms large for us because it
provides a microcosm of life as it was lived by ordinary people
under Greek and Roman rule." "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" continues to explore this information about daily life,
but it is unique in its focus on the textiles. Another useful
document for understanding the Karanis textiles is Lillian Wilson's
Ancient Textiles from Egypt in the University of Michigan Collection
(1933), which provides catalogue entries for about 1 percent of
the textiles from Karanis and is based in large part on an unpublished
study by the English scholar Thomas Midgley. Both studies identified
findspots when known, but neither exploited this information for
what it might say, for example, about the social settings in which
particular kinds of cloth were found. Aside from coins that might
provide a specific date-another rarity for late antique textiles-the
other items that were found with cloth artifacts have usually
been overlooked. "The Fabric of Everyday Life" will
make use of reconstructed assemblages and their typical contexts-interior
rooms, courtyards, and rubbish heaps-to reveal important insights
into cloth manufacture and mending, as well as the practices of
use, reuse, and ultimately rejection of a textile.
Museum Resources
Archival photographs are also crucial to what has turned out to
be an expedition into "museum archaeology" in preparation
for this exhibition. Such images provide visual evidence that
complements the sometimes spotty written records and mapping efforts
for these excavations, which were never published in their entirety.
Some of these photographs record discovery sites for which there
are no maps or written records; others record textiles that were
not acquired by the Kelsey and that, in all probability, no longer
survive (e.g., fig. 2) .
One archival photograph (fig. 3) organizes a selection of textiles
found during several years of excavation, thus recording their
condition upon discovery. This information is extremely useful
because, although the textiles have been cleaned since their acquisition,
no records of any treatments were kept. "The Fabric of Everyday
Life" will display a small but representative selection of
textiles in conjunction with archival photographs relevant to
their interpretation.
Yet another important context for the research represented in
"The Fabric of Everyday Life" has been important exploratory
work by longtime Kelsey Museum volunteer Ann Van Rosevelt in identifying
assemblages with cloth. In addition, my own surveys of the Kelsey
textile collection and the Karanis archives have benefited immensely
from a massive reorganization of the archives and reconfiguration
of the Museum's database. My survey of the textiles, begun in
the late 1980s, has been greatly facilitated by their placement
in the early 1990s in the spacious cabinets of the Museum's Sensitive
Artifact Facility and Environment (SAFE) (fig. 4).
The Textiles Themselves
In the Karanis textiles themselves, visitors to "The Fabric
of Everyday Life" will encounter plain, worn fragments with
little visual appeal (fig. 5). Upon examination and reflection,
however, these pieces exert an extraordinary power to evoke past
lives. Once, these rags were part of clothes that were worn next
to the skin, rugs that were walked on, or bags that carried life-sustaining
food. They are thus extremely "intimate artifacts,"
as one archaeologist calls them. The exhibition will attempt to
foreground that sense of intimacy, in part by asking viewers to
think of analogies for the use of cloth in their own lives.
The exhibition will also present ancient images of textiles as
a way to reveal conceptions of them quite different from the plain
examples found at the site. For example, one particular set of
images from Karanis, iconic wall paintings, envisions special
textiles worn by divinities (fig. 6). These sacred devotional
images represented for the inhabitants of Karanis a quality of
cloth that they did not expect to encounter in their everyday
lives.
A Team Effort
This exhibition project is a team effort. Consultants Mark Nielson
and Steve Hixson are coordinating exhibition design. Preparator
Dana Buck is making the design tangible. Conservator Brook Bowman
has prepared and vetted the textiles and other objects for display
and is assisting with exhibition design. Robin Meador-Woodruff
responds promptly and graciously to my special demands for photography.
Although many volunteers and students have worked with me on this
project, special thanks go to Kelly Goodknecht (Kalamazoo College),
research assistant extraordinaire, who organized vast amounts
of information from the archives, the database, and the registry,
and to Melanie Grunow (IPCAA), who is programming the touch-screen
computer for the exhibition. Finally, the project owes a great
debt to Ann Van Rosevelt for her many contributions over the years
to the preservation and study of these textiles.
Thelma K. Thomas